The throttle problem and lost power was indeed caused by the actuating linkage. The linkage clevis had worked a retaining nut at the carburetor up tight, binding the clevis and freezing the throttle setting. A jam nut now locks the problem piece in position and the car is much more responsive. A local NAPA had new lock cylinders in stock, so we replaced the badly worn kit and retapped the switch-retaining bolt hole with the next size up, so the switch stays nicely in place now.
Holiday Demonstration Rides
Took a nephew and my son around the long block, finishing up with a long uphill street yesterday, and noted radical bucking under power while going up the hill. Further experiments this morning confirmed it happens when under severe load for several seconds, not really related to the nose-up orientation of the car. Reason said it had to be restricted fuel flow, and on inspection we found our new inline fuel filter plugged with rusty colored mud. A new filter cured the problem, but it looks like we need to pull and clean out the gas tank.
Air Cleaner
We now think we can live with the eBay $1 + $35 shipping oil-bath air cleaner. I bought a new pair of generator drive belts, a half-inch longer, and I think the air cleaner will fit as soon as I change the belts.
Cool Cars Swap Meet
We drove 10 miles to Qualcomm stadium this morning for a miscellaneous car show. Longest trip so far, and we would have made it with no repairs, except for the plugged fuel filter we had to replace along the route. Met a few MOPAR guys and talked to the organizer of a San Diego club. Mostly, he says, they have 60s muscle cars, but he was enthusiastic about some 50s cars in the mix. We plan to get to one of their monthly meetings at the Montgomery Field Mexican restaurant. Talked to a chrome shop guy in the vendor field. He estimated straightening and rechroming the bumpers and guards, along with vent window frames and hood scoop, for much less than we feared, under two grand for the works. We will soon have to decide how much appearance stuff we want to take on. Some, for sure.
New Electrical Problem
Driving home from the swap meet, we noted an irregular clicking sound that pulsed the ammeter one way or the other. Even with the engine and ignition off. The charging circuit isn't that complicated on this car, so it almost has to be a problem voltage regulator. The meter indicates charging with the engine running, just has that erratic movement superimposed.
Current List of Improvements Needed
These aren't in any obvious order.
- Sort out the ammeter issue
- Clean out the gas tank
- Change the generator belts and put the air cleaner on
- Finish fastening down the new steering column pad
- Attach the logo castings that had just been laid against the car with no fasteners. DE_SOTO letters in front (the S is still lost), FIREDOME on front fenders, DESOTO on the tail gate, missing when we got the car. Haven't located those yet, so we might go ahead with laser-cut acrylic letters.
- Align the steering wheel so it's level when going straight.
- Connect the '53 bulb-type temperature sensor where the '56 electrical-type one is fitted
- Fix the speedometer (probably a cable will do it.)
- Fix the gas gauge (most likely flooded float in the tank? No, it reads full.)
- Remove, shorten, and reinstall the hood springs in the hope they will then hold up the hood
- Address the body lean. Driver's side is low when parked and presumably when in motion
- Get the inch-thick crud off the front suspension parts and check for slop, missing sway bars, rotted rubber parts, dry grease joints. I think the car should steer better than it does.
- Re-arch the rear springs maybe. The air shocks will hold it up until they leak down, but good springs might be worthwhile.
- Find and purchase the missing side moldings. The chrome guy said he could probably make us a set from stainless if we don't find them.
- Check the Tip-Toe Automatic transmission. It usually shifts up as promised, but it often does not drop out of overdrive at a stoplight as it should, making it very sluggish off the line. I've never seen it kick down, and it should be able to according to the manual. I think there are missing or unconnected electrical controls. There's no switch on the carburetor, for example, and manuals indicate there should be.
- Check for radiator leaks. I've seen a little water on the garage floor after a drive, but I haven't determined whether it's overflow or a leak.
- Buy and attach some side mirrors. I don't see how people used to drive without them!
- Reconnect the heater and defroster, discover a leaking heater core and repair or replace.
- Never mind the 6V, positive ground radio.
And then...
- New chrome?
- Repair rust inside roof where the driver's side visor has broke off? Requires new headliner.
- Body work? Right front has cheap, crooked, collision repair. Some rust under body. Rust through in a few spots, low on doors and fenders. Tailgate is pretty bad.
- New interior? What's there is original except for deck planking in back. Missing floor pads and carpet, missing door sills. Windlace is shot or missing.
- Window rubber? Some is painted, all is hard. Doesn't rain enough here to tell if it leaks, but it probably does.
