Sunday, October 27, 2013

Progress [John]

Phil and I spent a few hours on the car yesterday and made some headway. We are now familiar with how to remove the gas tank, and we have deeper insight into the dash wiring.

Electrical Problem
The erratic ammeter needle noted in our last post turned out to have a simple cause, but it took a few hours over a couple of hobby days to find and fix it. Removing the dash binnacle disclosed some hot-to-the-touch wires that were related to the ammeter motion. Removing wires from the ammeter and then the ignition switch revealed that the problem was in the stoplight circuit. Under the car, we found the stoplight switch was not connected, but the two wires leading to it were neatly draped over the exhaust pipe. Most of the wiring in this car is original with cotton fabric insulation, but these two wires were low melting point plastic and had melted through. Tracking down some screws for the stoplight switch posts and attaching the wires cured the problem. Stoplights work, and no more evidence of shorts. We added electrical tape to the broken insulation we found behind the dash. 

Speedometer
While sorting out the stoplight switch, Phil disconnected the speedometer cable and found the last inch and a half was twisted off. Could have been an easy fix: we got a new cable, cut it to fit, slid it into the existing sleeve and went for a ride. Speedometer still doesn't work. Next is verify that the meter end of the cable really turns when the car is moving, and if it does, look for a meter rebuild source. 

Fuel tank
We decided to drain the tank, remove it, and clean it some how. Draining -- no problem. Removing -- pretty difficult. One retaining strap came off easily. The other is rusted and frozen. The attachment is an apparently special, hollow, hex-headed bolt. Worse, the steel fuel filling tube is attached to the tank by a formerly flexible reinforced neoprene hose section that is now completely rigid. The top end of the filler pipe goes through a fender hole protected by a rubber grommet, also now completely solid. We shifted to plan B: filter the gas and rinse out the tank. That went apparently well, and we removed a couple tablespoons of solid sediment. Also replaced the in-line fuel filter with one that can be inspected and cleaned. 

Gas Gauge
The gauge has showed constant full since we got the car. While cleaning out the tank, we removed the sending unit from the tank. Testing indicated the gauge itself is OK, but the sending unit rheostat is trashed. Local NAPA has a generic replacement, but it won't fit. We'll find one.

Air Cleaner
I changed the generator belts for a pair a half-inch longer. The air cleaner is now on the car, and there is a tiny amount of travel left in the generator support bracket. I think we can live with it. 
Note half inch of travel left in support bracket and 1/8 inch clearance between power steering pump and the cleaner. Perfect! 



Test Drives
Several trips around various blocks show that the engine runs nicely, the brakes work, and that with a little practice, you can get the transmission to do some shifting. No kick-down, and not quite reliable shifts into overdrive indicate there is more work to be done here. A small puddle of coolant appears on the floor when you pull back into the garage. 

Overall, a good work day.