A starving hemi and other musings [John]

This engine isn't getting enough fuel. Irregular squirts from the fuel pump, even when siphoning from a gas can, inspired us to replace it. Car Quest/Kragen had it in stock, but we had to tell them it was for a Dodge 340. The new one squirts better and is now protected by a supply-side filter. Engine still starves on a moderate hill -- clearly the fuel supply can't keep up with the demand. Maybe it's crud in the tank.
I dropped the tank, destroying one seized tank strap and the rotten hose that connects the filler pipe to the tank in the process. There was a lot of sediment in the tank, including this stuff:

Fuel tank sediment

I don't know what this is. Could possibly have been dropped in the tank at some point, but I suspect it was a device that hung on the end of the tank pickup, maybe to keep it near the bottom. The pickup is a fixed tube that enters the tank through a welded fixture and disappears into the thinner part of the stepped tank. I don't see any way to get at it. Do we need it? I'm doing poorly at researching this in the DeSoto manual and the web.
The tank had a lot of particles in it. After draining, I loaded it into Barbara's Fiesta and drove to the radiator shop. Closed Saturdays. Tried another, also closed. So back at home, I used a pressure washer to break the stuff inside the tank loose wherever I could reach it through the sending unit hole and the fill pipe connector. Rinsed the tank perhaps 20 times, catching the water in a white bucket to inspect it for more grit. Eventually it cleared up. Mostly.
So, do I know why it's starving? Well, I noticed the fuel line is a bit kinked near the tank. That could be it. Or there might be a clogged sock or screen on the (not-visible) tank pickup. The pickup passes air in both directions, with more resistance than a 5/16 hose. But the flare fitting on it has a rather small orifice. Is it clear enough? Current plan is to price a tank boil out. and have it done if it's reasonable. Need to find a replacement tank strap (an RV shop maybe?). Probably should cut out the pinch or kink in the fuel line. Then we can try it again.

Other progress

• Straightened the steering wheel. Harder than expected to put the horn switch back in correctly. Why didn't I shoot an iPhone photo of it while taking it apart? No horns are installed, and the horn wire tests continuously grounded. A project for another day.
• Installed side mirrors. I hung them on the top of the door so they don't block the vent windows from opening all the way. I've seen some on the front post of the door. 
  
  
  
• Got a new tank sending unit. The float arm is too short -- we'll need to extend it when we put the tank back in the car. 
• Installed a hood prop rod that compensates for the weak hood springs. 
• Found that the new cable didn't fix the speedometer. The meter appears to be seized at the point where the cable connects. 
• The temp sensor on the car is bulb type, but the '56 engine has an electric type, with a much smaller bore into the intake manifold than the bulb needs. Maybe a new modern (but 6 volt) gauge. 
• A blog reader agreed to sell me his spare set of wiper towers, arms, and blades! I didn't know where I could find those. Now if I can track down the rear fender moldings....
• Researched transmission operation somewhat. The TipToe (M6) has two mechanical forward gears and an overdrive that can apply to both of them. If it is working correctly, it is reported to be satisfactory. Ours isn't. The '56 carb lacks the electric solenoid dashpot the '53s have -- that must be why it tends to stall at stops sometimes. The carb also lacks a kick down switch. Maybe that's why it won't drop out of overdrive with a floored throttle. I've heard a manual switch within driver's reach can make the car more drivable. Probably worth a try. 
• Turn signals need work. They worked for a while, but don't seem to now. Wiring at the flasher connector is trash, so that might be a good place to start.